Nic, You asked for an ammo can 12v power station build walk thru.....this is about the best I can do.....at the end is a generic Amazon Parts List the stuff I mention. First you need to decide what you want it to do. Just to be a USB charging station? A combo power station with USB charging as well as to power a HAM radio? Do you want it to be charged by a separate battery charger only? Or do you want it to be charged by solar panels? How much power, or amps, will you draw from it? The more you want it to do, the more stuff you need, the more it will cost, and the bigger the enclosure you will need. After you decide on what you want it to do, you have to figure out what enclosure you will use. Using a FAT 50 GI Ammo Can like I did, also limits the size of battery you can use. To help you decide on the enclosure, you need to decide on how much energy you need. Since this will be a 12v system, look at the physical size and the AH rating of the battery. Bigger AH is better.....as long as the battery will fit..... Gonna make some assumptions for this walk thru... FAT 50 GI Ammo Can USB Ports Cigarette Lighter Socket Anderson Power Pole connectors for HAM No Solar Charge Controller SLA battery It will be an external access build. 10-15 amps total draw. I use the 1” modules for my builds. If you get this set, and use each module, you will have to 5 holes in the lid of the ammo can. Because for powering a HAM radio, you will probably need Anderson Power Pole connectors. You can get them in a 1” module as well. But, if you replace the Voltmeter and USB charging modules with a combo module, you only have to drill 4 holes. To drill the holes in the ammo can lid, I drill a pilot hole with a regular 1/4” drill bit. Then I use a step drill like this one to open it up to 1-1/8”: I then use a round file to clean up the burrs. As you can see here, four holes don’t look bad on a FAT 50. I placed the round nuts from the modules on the lid in several configurations. Because my goal was to have 3 USB charging Modules, and 1 Cigarette Lighter Socket, I decided on a straight line. When I build my next FAT 50 with external access, it will be a combo. And I already know I’ll do two above and two below the handle. Towards the corners. Before you drill the holes, ensure you don’t get too close to the edge so that you avoid the angled metal that holds the gasket. Don’t want to interfere with the modules nut. My next one will have the Power Switch and USB/Voltmeter modules above the handle. And the Cigarette Lighter Socket and Power Pole modules below the handle. But you gotta figure out how YOU want them arranged. But Wait! There’s more. If you don’t want to drill holes in the lid of your ammo can, you can cut a piece of this plywood or lexan.....I used lexan with one, trimed it to fit the body, then put a bead of hot-glue inside at the depth I wanted it to be.....just deep enough to clear the modules when the lid was closed.....this kept it waterproof..... I recommend using a shelf as is much easier to reconfigure later, or even start over without having drilled hole in the can itself. After you drill and de-burr the holes, you get to play with deciding on the arrangement of the modules. Once you have them arranged the way you want, insert them and screw on the nuts to lock them in place. But Wait! There’s more. If you don’t want to drill holes in the lid of your ammo can, you can cut a piece of this plywood or lexan.....I used lexan with one, trimed it to fit the body, then put a bead of hot-glue inside at the depth I wanted it to be.....just deep enough to clear the modules when the lid was closed.....this kept it waterproof..... So everything described above also applies to drilling a shelf for inside the can.... Next, you get to start wiring it all up...But first...if the assumption is 15 amp max total draw, you can use 14ga wire. But you need 12ga wire for up to 20amp max total draw. If you need more than 20amps, this build will need some important changes I choose to use “Flag” connectors to save some length at the bottom of the module. See the picture above that shows them. Here is the basic wiring diagram for the modules: But if you choose to use a Power Pole module, you will have to take into account that it has 2 “+” and 2 “-“....here is the back of that module: You can see it’s different from the other modules. However, if you want to simplify the build, you forego the Power Pole Module. Just use just the 4 module that come in the kit. And then you can then get or make various adapters that can plug into the cigarette light socket and give you Power Pole or any other kind connectors on the other end. This is actually how I use and charge mine. I bought a few of these off of Amazon: One is in each can just like it came. Others, I cut the terminals off, and replaced them with the type of terminals I needed. Like one has 5mm x 2.5mm plugs so that I can power my security camera system during a power outage without firing up the genset. One tip: I use a small screw driver to pop out the switch from its module. Then I feed its wires and connectors thru the module, and then connect them to the switch. Makes it much easier. Ok, now that you have the holes drilled, modules installed, and wired, you’ll need to connect it to the battery...... But First....need to talk about batteries..... Obviously you want the most capacity you can fit in the can...taking into consideration how far down the modules and wire ends extend down into the body of the can. Basically you’ll only be able use one of two types of batteries. SLA, Sealed Lead Acid.... Lithium.... SLA is the most common choice. It’s the less expensive choice, and chargers for them are more common. They have drawbacks though. They’re heavier. You can only use 50% of their capacity without harming them. They have a shorter life span. Lithium is the better choice. They are far lighter than SLA’s. For the same size, they can have higher capacity. You can use up to 90% of their capacity without harming them. Their life span can be 3-4 times that of SLA’s. But they too have drawbacks. They cost twice that of a similar SLA, sometimes more. If you over charge them, or drain them to low, they will not only be ruined they can catch on fire. They require specialized chargers. They can’t be discharged or charged as fast as SLA’s can without harming them. BUT....if you get a lithium battery that has a built-in BMS (battery management system), the BMS will protect it from overcharging, undercharging, short circuits, overheating, etc.... Now to the next battery issue....running two batteries in parallel....it a great way to get more capacity in the limited space of an ammo can....but there are drawbacks.... When left alone for extended periods, two batteries connected in parallel can “teeter-totter” and discharge each other unless they are perfectly matched. And it’s rare to get matched batteries off the shelf. You need to use an analyzer on several, and then select the two that have matching results. Most people ain’t doing that. So you have to keep them on a charger, or have a disconnect to electrically separate them when not in use or charging. Mine, in the pictures, has a STDP switch to do this. You also have to use the same length of wires. This is far more critical for Lithium batteries. Wires have resistance. Not much, but they still do. And Ohm’s law always applies. When you have two batteries in parallel with un-equal lengths of wiring to each one from the rest of the system, the battery with the longest leads has more resistance between it and the system than the battery with the shorter wires. This means it will provide less energy when discharging, and receive less energy when charging. This combination will reduce its capacity over time, reducing its lifespan compared to the other battery. Eventually it will actually cause the other battery to overwork, and ruin it too. All that to explain why you need use exactly the same length of wires connected to parallel batteries. And to either always keep them on a charger, or have a disconnect between them each, and the system. Now back to the build. After you place the battery in the body of the can, I like to cut up closed cell foam, used in a lot of packaging, to surround the battery to keep it from moving around. Alternatively, I have used a lot of Velcro on the bottom of the battery and the inside bottom of the can. Now you need to connect the inline fuse between the battery and the power switch. Then you can connect it to the battery. It sounds far more complicated than it really is.... Summary..... Figure out what you want before you order parts... Drill holes in lid of the can, or the shelf... Insert the modules... Wire it according wiring diagram... Not that it’s built, you need to regularly monitor it, and charge the battery. Remember, SLA and Lithium batteries require different chargers... ********************************** Generic parts list: Power supply to keep it charged without solar... $8.80 https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Switching-Supply-Adapter-100-240/dp/B00OFKLFBE/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=SMAKN+Dc+18v+1a+Switching+Power+Supply&qid=1634263075&sr=8-3 Charge controller... $15.87 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072MMDY4F/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1FURYF78AX8PL&psc=1 Panel with switch, voltmeter, USB ports, and cigarette lighter socket... $18.54 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P5MZ111/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=AUTFQ43Q7FMBM&psc=1 Optional USB fast charge module... $11.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086PRHKC1/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=A1OVJS2ITMAZ4K&psc=1 Power pole connector module... $25.49 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077VWXXYG/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=A1UZH0Q8MMO1YX&psc=1 Fuse holder options... $7.99 to $11.99 https://www.amazon.com/MCIGICM-Inline-Fuse-Holder-Blade/dp/B081DHT8Y7/ref=sr_1_5?crid=39C7M40VYQVUI&dchild=1&keywords=inline+blade+fuse+holder&qid=1634263458&sr=8-5 https://www.amazon.com/Holder-12-32V-Indicator-Automotive-Marine/dp/B08HHXN1DJ/ref=sr_1_19?dchild=1&keywords=blade+fuse+holder&qid=1634263645&sr=8-19 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W5QF99B/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2HGPUDYNZFAMU&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/KOLACEN-Blade-Standard-Holder-Truck/dp/B07W5QF99B/ref=sr_1_20?dchild=1&keywords=blade+fuse+holder&qid=1634263645&sr=8-20 Optional terminal blocks... $10.94 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CND6XN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Electrical connector kit... $10.62 - $15.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CXLCZT2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XC2PQ58/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 SLA Battery 12v 15ah... $32.99 https://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Max-Battery-ML15-12-Product/dp/B00K8V2FUE/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2NJIIAEOV8075&dchild=1&keywords=12v+sla+battery+15ah&qid=1634265126&rdc=1&sr=8-2 12ga silicone wire......$22.98 If you will only have low power draw, 14ga is cheaper... https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Conductor-parallel-silicone-Extension/dp/B07RV6Q7ND/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=12ga+stranded+wire&qid=1634265436&s=industrial&sr=1-12 Step drill bit.... $12.99 https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10194A-Titanium-Drill-Speed/dp/B000FZ2UOY/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=step+drill+bit&qid=1634266141&sr=8-3

Army physician and aerospace medicine specialist calls on Pentagon to order all pilots who have received COVID-19 vaccine to be grounded JD Hayes www.newstarget.com 29 Sep 2021 A U.S. Army doctor who is also a specialist in aerospace medicine has made an unprecedented call to Pentagon leaders, asking them to ground all pilots in all services who have gotten a COVID-19 vaccine. In an affidavit, Lt. Col. Theresa Long lays out her reasoning, with citations and studies, stating that she is doing so under the auspices of the Military Whistleblower Protection Act. Long then went on to lay out her credentials: She earned “a bachelor’s degree from the University of Texas Austin, completed my medical degree from the University of Texas Health Science Center at Houston Medical School in 2008” then “served as a Field Surgeon for ten years and went on to complete a residency in Aerospace and Occupational Medicine at the United States Army School of Aviation Medicine” at Fort Rucker, Ala. Long wrote that she’s “been trained by the Combat Readiness Center at Ft. Rucker as an Aviation Safety Officer” and has had additional training in the “Medical Management of Chemical and Biological Causalities at Fort Detrick.” She’s also “board certified in flight Aerospace Medicine and board eligible in Occupational Medicine.” The Army doc noted that before the COVID-19 pandemic, she underwent “specialized military training from Infectious Disease doctors from the Army, Navy and Air Force on emerging infectious disease threats,” and has “recently functioned as a medical and scientific advisor to an Aviation training Brigade seeking to identify risk mitigation strategies, and bio statistical analysis of SARS- Cov-2 (“Covid 19”) infections in both vaccinated and unvaccinated Soldiers.” She’s also both diagnosed and treated COVID-19 cases, so again, she’s certainly qualified to offer an opinion. “I have observed vaccine adverse events following the administration of EUA vaccines, and followed the success of Soldiers who obtained various Covid 19 therapies outside the military. The majority of the service members within the DOD population are young and in good physical condition,” she testified in her affidavit. “Military aviators are a subset of the military population that has to meet the most stringent medical standards to be on flight status. The population of student pilots I take care of are primarily in their 20s-30s, males and in excellent physical condition. The risk of serious illness or death in this population from SARs-CoV-2 is minimal, with a survival rate of 99.997%,” she continued. After taking in all the data and observing how the virus does — and, importantly, does not affect — military readiness, Long said she has since formed a professional opinion she is obligated to report to her superiors. The problem, she said, is that no one wants to hear about it. “I have done so with mixed results in terms of acceptance, rejection and threats of punishment for so sharing,” she wrote. The doctor went on to quote Army Training Doctrine regulations, which state that “risk decisions” are up to individual commanders to accept or reject, and that they, too, must either act on decisions or pass them further up the chain of command. Either way, she made clear that she is fulfilling her responsibilities in reporting what she has found and the conclusions she has reached. “The CDC and the FDA are civilian agencies that do not have the mission of National Defense that the DOD has. Guidance and recommendations made by these civilian agencies must be filtered through strategic perspective of national defense and the potential risks recommendations may have on the health of the entire fighting force,” Long testified, adding: The majority of young new Army aviators are in their early twenties. We know there is a risk of myocarditis with each mRNA vaccination. We additionally now know that vaccination does not necessarily prevent infection or transmission of SARs-CoV-2. Therefore individuals fully vaccinated with mRNA vaccines have at least two independent risk factors for myocarditis after vaccination. Additional boaster shots add more risk. It is impossible to perform a risk/benefit analysis on the use of mRNA as counter measures to SARs-CoV-2 without further data… Use of mRNA vaccines in our fighting force presents a risk of undetermined magnitude, in a population in which less than 20 active-duty personnel out of 1.4 million, died of the underlying SARs- CoV-2. The problem, she said, is that few of the young aviators would know if they had developed myocarditis, which could affect them negatively — including cause sudden death — while they are flying. Her opinion: I personally observed the most physically fit female Soldier I have seen in over 20 years in the Army, go from Colligate level athlete training for Ranger School, to being physically debilitated with cardiac problems, newly diagnosed pituitary brain tumor, thyroid dysfunction within weeks of getting vaccinated. Several military physicians have shared with me their firsthand experience with a significant increase in the number of young Soldiers with migraines, menstrual irregularities, cancer, suspected myocarditis and reporting cardiac symptoms after vaccination. Numerous Soldiers and DOD civilians have told me of how they were sick, bed-ridden, debilitated, and unable to work for days to weeks after vaccination. I have also recently reviewed three flight crew members’ medical records, all of which presented with both significant and aggressive systemic health issues. Today I received word of one fatality and two ICU cases on Fort Hood; the deceased was an Army pilot who could have been flying at the time. All three pulmonary embolism events happened within 48 hours of their vaccination. I cannot attribute this result to anything other than the Covid 19 vaccines as the source of these events. Each person was in top physical condition before the inoculation and each suffered the event within 2 days post vaccination. “The politicization of SARs-CoV-2, treatments and vaccination strategies have completely compromised long-standing safety mechanisms, open and honest dialogue, and the trust of our service members in their health system and healthcare providers,” she added. Now, the question becomes, is SECDEF Lloyd Austin going to listen to her? Doubtful.

So you want to try 3d printing or you saw my post on FB and think 3d printing guns sounds like a great way to flip the preverbal bird at the government. What follows is a very basic overview of what you will need to get started. First off 3d printing is a hobby all its own. It can be extremely useful as well as maddening beyond belief. This is not an appliance technology yet. If that is what you are looking for I am sorry to inform you that you will be waiting a few years to a few decades. However it is my firm belief that within the next twenty years 3d printers will become as common as inkjet and laser printers. They allow you to repair broken parts, solve small issues, and customize things in a way that traditional manufacturing does not allow. As a apocalypse prep item they are not there yet. They are too inefficient to run off a generator or solar and prints fail too often to stake your life on. But as a tool in the tool box every day prep they have saved many items in my home from having to be replaced due to lack of available parts. These ranged from my refrigerator to my truck and include magazines for pistols and rifles. I am even currently doing commissioned prints for a variety of customers ranging from industrial prototypes to art pieces and toys. The reason I started printing was the Liberator Pistol, see the link below. Gun control is officially impossible. The common man with no manufacturing skills can now make a lethal pistol. Since then we have come a long way enter the FGC9 a semiautomatic made of all off the shelf available components from a hardware store and 3d printed parts. See video 2. First Firing of "Liberator" 3D Printed Gun,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IylGx-48TUI FGC-9 MKII Blastin',https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5qsVrHmYw0 Item 1: Your 3d Printer Even a cursory internet search will show you a wide variety of available printers from $100-$10,000 choosing the right printer is a deeply personal choice as much as choosing your favorite knife. But most of us end up with a swiss army knife or 6 anyway. Enter the Ender 3 the swiss army knife of entry level kit printers. https://www.newegg.com/creality-3d-ender-3-black/p/288-00B4-00038?item=9SIAXGKDY94392&source=region&nm_mc=knc-googlemkp-pc&cm_mmc=knc-googlemkp-pc-_-pla-creality+3d+printer+authorized-_-3d+printers-_-9SIAXGKDY94392&gclid=Cj0KCQjwv5uKBhD6ARIsAGv9a-wj_hFa29HgVvlZI9yrNcP86HbF-Uw9oPgNjcOqZZvJUxl7exX1GcQaAmaGEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Why the Ender 3? It can typically be had for sub $180, it has a respectable 220x220x250mm (8.6x8.6x9.8in) build space. Before you even start assembly there are a few inexpensive upgrades that I recommend everyone does immediately. The bellow links will bring you to the upgraded bed springs, all metal extruder assembly, and high precision Bowden tube. https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Aluminum-Extruder-Upgraded-Compression/dp/B085S15YKS/ref=asc_df_B085S15YKS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416748841421&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7653299553701869303&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021446&hvtargid=pla-904266773231&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=95471655978&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=416748841421&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7653299553701869303&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021446&hvtargid=pla-904266773231 https://www.amazon.com/Authentic-Capricorn-Filament-Pneumatic-Fittings/dp/B08D3K9DK2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3DBI9C15FCJTF&dchild=1&keywords=capricorn+bowden+tubing&qid=1632068034&s=industrial&sprefix=capri%2Cindustrial%2C200&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFLT0Y2SjRJRjlRNTUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxNDMyMzYzVUxUVjhLNDJUSk1SJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3MTI2ODMxM1pUWkM5RklDWFpDJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== The upgraded bed springs will hold your bed level better than the very soft stock springs. The all metal extruder assembly will by far outlast the stock plastic one and give you more consistent performance. The plastic extruder arm will either wear through were the filament rubs on it or crack at the pivot point. That said you can print a new one before it breaks or wears out. I know several people who rely on these exclusively. These printed extruder arms typically need replacement every 200hrs or so material dependent. Inconsistent extrusion is a major impediment to good prints as the layers will either not bond correctly or will be the wrong size/shape. The Capricorn Bowden tube above is made of a higher temperature polymer that will allow you to print more materials as well as flexible filaments due to its tighter tolerances. So you have all of your parts, your printer has arrived. Your first task will be to assemble it from the number of parts and sub assembly components provided. Do not rely on the supplied instructions they are quite possibly the worst instructions I have ever tried to use. Granted I got my Ender 3 about 4 years ago so this may have improved. Instead I recommend you use the below tutorial Creality Ender 3 assembly and pro build tips,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me8Qrwh907Q This gentlemen focuses on game components but his tutorials are some of the better ones for beginners. You will need a set of metric Allen Keys, and a set of thin metric open ended wrenches. The ones supplied are ok but they will wear out quickly. Watch all the way though the build video at least once and stage your parts in a way you find sensible. I have heard of parts being missing from the kits. This will help you determine if you are missing parts before you start your build so you can reach out to the manufacturer. Thus far everything I have heard has been overwhelmingly positive about Creality's customer service. It will likely take you an hour or so to assemble. Take your time get everything nice a square, ensure all the moving parts move in the correct way. Time well spent in assembly will save headaches in the long run. Once you are all assembled complete an extrusion calibration test simply search youtube for a how to all of the videos are the same. This will ensure that you are pushing out the correct amount of plastic required. Item 2: Filament This is what your parts will be made of. Your choices here will be fairly simple at first. Just buy PLA 1.75mm Dia filament from any major brand. They are all fairly comparable for starter parts and learning. Every brand and color will need slightly different printer settings so for starters buy 2 spools of 1 color and brand. PLA is very paint friendly so don't stress the color too much. I like Hatchbox, E3d, Amazon basic, Mater Hackers and will typically just buy what ever is on sale. PLA is typically from $14-23 per Kg or about 2.2 pounds on a spool. When you get a new brand or new color proceed in the following order of tests and tweaks. Print a Temperature Tower to find the ideal print temperature. Print a Retraction test, altering the retraction settings will help control oozing during travel and blobby artifacts on your print. Lastly print an overhand test or 2 to test a variety of fan speeds to give you the best layer adhesion and maximum overhang. There are a number of videos on these tests on youtube and rumble that go into greater detail. Once you have a handle on PLA you can consider branching out into other materials PETG, PET, Nylon, ABS, HIPS, and others all have their benefits and detriments. Research them before trying to make the jump. Some give off harmful particulates and may require an enclosure to keep the air temp and currents stable. You can absolutely print firearms with PLA, my ar15 lower is just fine after 1500rnds. All filament you will probably use is Hydrophilic it will absorb water from the air over time and print worse because of it. Place all filament into a air tight container such as a 5 gallon bucket with a gamma screw top lid when not in use. If it does get wet stick it into your oven at 120deg for 4 hours, or in your dehydrator for the same time. At that temp it will not release any volatile organic compounds or harmful gasses. This will return the filament to like new condition. Item 3: Computer/Software If you have a pc or laptop any pc or laptop it will probably be fine. You will need a MicroSD slot or an adapter to save your files to the Micro SD card and transfer them to your printer. I recommend at least something with 4gb of ram. The only software you will 100% need is a slicer. There are many slicers but your going to use Ultimaker's Cura it is not the best but it is good, free, and easy to use. there are thousands of tutorials on how to use this software online and it has all the posts you will want for a huge swath of new and old printers. Item 4: Isopropyl Alcohol 70-90% This is for cleaning your print bed. If your print bed is not clean the print will not stick. Clean you bed before every print. Item 5: STL Files An STL file is a 3d model of a part. You can make these yourself with various software. If you get to that point pick a software you like or has good community support and go to town. For now what you are going to do is use files other people have made. The below links are a great place to start. https://www.thingiverse.com/ https://www.stlfinder.com/ Home,https://thegatalog.com/ Some Makers (makers are what you are now dudes that make stuff) will make detailed build information including what parts you need, how to print them, what materials to use, and how to assemble and use them. Others just toss up the parts and run away. The Gatalog is a fantastic repository from Deterrence Dispensed they are the group behind the first 3d printed firearm, 3d printed magazines, and much of the panic our senators and congressmen are experiencing. Pick a part and give you print a send. Trouble Shooting: You are going to have failed prints. I have been doing this for 5 years and have prints fail for what appears to be no reason every once and a while. When in doubt clean and level your bed, dry your filament and check that you didn't change any settings in your slicer. If you made it this far and have questions hit me up, if I can help you I absolutely will. Remember the only control the government has is the control you give them. "You cant stop the signal Mal" Firefly